Getting Closer To The Roots: A Trip To Kotdwara, The Village Of My Grandmother

It was in 1929, when the Father of our nation, Mahatma Gandhi wrote about Uttarakhand hills-

“In these hills, Nature’s hospitality eclipses all man can ever do. The enchanting beauties of the Himalayas, their bracing climate and the soothing green that envelope you leaves nothing more to be desired. I wonder whether the scenery of these hills and the climate are to be surpassed, if qualified, by any of the beauty spots of the world.”

Hailing from the enchanting land of Uttarakhand, I can assertively declare that there is truly no place like it. Fondly called Dev Bhoomi or the dwelling of the Gods, Uttarakhand is an awe-inspiring northern Indian state that dazzles with its majestic beauty. Every chance I get, I'm drawn back to the captivating charm of Uttarakhand's hills. When it comes to sheer splendor and unparalleled grandiosity, the Uttarakhand Himalayas stand unrivaled amongst all other mountainous regions worldwide. This unspoiled gem, loaded with precious mineral deposits, boasts a stunning allure that's second to none. Here is where the sacred rivers of Ganga, Yamuna, Alaknanda, and Mandakini originate and glisten in their pristine, blissful infancy.

Uttarakhand, the state that encapsulates the very soul of India, boasts breathtaking landscapes featuring majestic snow-kissed mountains, shimmering rivers, and lush forests. The unspoiled beauty of this region is truly incomparable, making it an absolute must-see for anyone with a passion for mountains, rivers, forests, and wildlife.

Each journey I embark on in Uttarakhand leaves me utterly captivated and refreshed. But what truly sets this paradise apart isn't solely its breathtaking natural splendor, but also the rich culture that thrives here. The warm, hospitable locals take immense pride in their unique customs and heritage. Uttarakhand offers a delightful experience for every traveler - be it savoring scrumptious local dishes, partaking in spirited festivals, or simply losing oneself amidst the stunning landscape.

What I love most about Uttarakhand is its spiritual energy. From the ancient temples to the peaceful ashrams, there are countless places where one can connect with the divine. It is a place where one can truly find inner peace and rejuvenation.

Last month, I had the chance to visit my father's maternal village, Padampur Motadhak, nestled just seven kilometers from the bustling town of Kotdwar in the Pauri Garhwal district of Uttarakhand. My dad had some personal matters to attend to, and my mother and I eagerly joined him on this tour. Setting out from Gurgaon at 8:30 a.m., we arrived in Kotdwar by 2:30 p.m., having covered around 241 kilometers by car.

After a delightful evening spent with my dad's younger maternal uncle's family in town, we continued towards Padampur Motadhak, a peaceful haven situated in the Bhabar region, just a short drive away. This was where another branch of our family—my father's late elder maternal uncle's descendants—called home.

As I stepped out of the car, I was instantly greeted by a breathtaking panorama of lush greenery that wrapped itself around the village like a soothing embrace. A hilly river, forests, and mountains served as a backdrop, enveloping us in an atmosphere of tranquility. Breathing in the fresh, crisp air and serenaded by the symphony of nature, I couldn't help but revel in the stark contrast to our hectic city life.

However, change was evident as the once-traditional village merged with modernity. My grandmother's old childhood abode had been replaced by an impressive, contemporary structure constructed by my generous Tauji, Shri Narendra Kukreti—a testament to both time and transformation.

Over the course of two delightful days, I immersed myself in village life alongside my endearing cousins, Aanchal and Ankur. Their genuine warmth and hospitality were truly heartwarming. As we exchanged stories of our lives and experiences, it was incredible to see how we found common ground despite our diverse backgrounds. Our shared appreciation for family, community, and nature brought us closer together. One unforgettable moment was partaking in a traditional meal with the entire family, savoring every bite of the delectable homemade dishes crafted by my Taiji from their garden-grown ingredients. Engaging in lively conversation and laughter as we ate solidified the deep human connections we formed transcending all unfamiliarity.

As my father and Tauji immersed themselves in work, the very next day, we three adventurers embarked on an exciting journey through the enchanting hills surrounding Kotdwar in Ankur Bhaiya's trusty Scorpio. Ascending the winding Pulinda road, we were rewarded with a breathtaking panorama of the picturesque Kotdwar town below. Along the way, I eagerly absorbed fascinating tidbits about Kotdwar and its captivating nearby attractions.

Nestled among the majestic hills and dense forests of Uttarakhand, Kotdwar proudly stands as the eighth-largest city in Uttarakhand, covering a total of 31 square miles (80 sq.km). With its origins tracing back to British rule, this once military base camp now thrives at an altitude of 395 meters above sea level. Over the years, Kotdwar has transformed from its humble beginnings to a lively commercial hub. As per the 2011-2020 Indian census, this picturesque foothill city is home to an impressive population of 175,232 residents.

Once upon a time, the charming town we know today went by the name of "Khohdwar", an ode to its position as the gateway to the enchanting river Khoh. Nestled in the southwest corner of the mystical land of Uttarakhand, this town serves as one of the primary entryways into a state brimming with natural beauty and wonder.

Once a secluded and lesser-known gem, this area burst into the spotlight when the British connected it to the railway system in 1890. Boasting one of India's oldest rail stations, Kotdwar Railway Station remains a testament to British engineering. As the Gateway to Garhwal, this thriving junction served as the lifeblood for transporting timber from the Garhwal region.

Kotdwar boasts excellent connectivity to India's major cities via its extensive railway network. The closest airport, Jolly Grant Airport, is a mere 105 km away, with convenient access to taxis and buses. Furthermore, Kotdwar's robust road connections to Uttarakhand's top destinations make travel a breeze. Heading to Kotdwar from Delhi? Simply hop on one of the readily available buses. Plus, National Highway 119 keeps the town seamlessly linked to the country's network.

Kotdwar captivates visitors with its stunning beauty and alluring attractions, and one such gem is the Siddhbali Temple. Perched atop a hill, just 2 km from Kotdwara, the temple serves as a picturesque vantage point to gaze upon the majestic mountains enveloping the area. Dedicated to Lord Hanuman, this revered pilgrimage site draws in devotees the multitude.

A captivating destination in Kotdwara you simply cannot miss is the Durga Devi Temple. Located just 13 km away on the Kotdwara-Pauri motorable road, this enchanting temple sits along the right bank of the Khoh River and is 600 meters above sea level. Its mesmerizing beauty lies within a cave, nestled 4 meters deep inside. Venture further and you'll discover a sacred Shivling, renowned for granting heartfelt wishes. During Shivratri, devotees from far and wide make their pilgrimage to pay homage to the divine deity.

Situated just 1.3 km (0.81 mi) from the Kotdwar bus stand, you'll find St. Joseph's Church, an awe-inspiring masterpiece that holds the title of Asia's second-largest church at its altitude. Welcoming visitors every day, this magnificent sanctuary embraces people from all walks of life and communities, creating a truly inclusive atmosphere.

If you're a nature enthusiast, don't miss an opportunity to explore the enchanting Kanvashram. Situated just 14 km from Kotdwar, this scenic location rests along the banks of the Malini River. Steeped in historical and archaeological significance, Kanvashram is where sage Vishwamitra's intense meditation drew the attention of Indra, king of the Gods. Fearing the sage's powers, Indra dispatched the alluring celestial nymph Menaka to interrupt his focus. Menaka's mission was a success, culminating in the birth of a daughter who was abandoned on the banks of the Malini. Sage Kanva discovered this forsaken child and raised her as his own, christening her Shakuntala. The very ashram where sage Kanva practiced his penance became a prestigious center for knowledge, nurturing young minds in various disciplines such as Vedas, Puranas, and Sanskrit.

In the enchanting Kanva Ashram, Prince Dushyanta of Hastinapur laid eyes upon the mesmerizing Shakuntala and the two became inseparable, ultimately marrying each other. As Dushyanta departed for his realm, Shakuntala found herself lost in daydreams of their reunion. It was in this vulnerable state that Rishi Durvasa approached her. Unnoticed by the lovestruck Shakuntala, Durvasa's fury erupted in the form of a curse: her beloved would forget all about her.

Carrying their unborn child, a distressed Shakuntala ventured to Dushyanta's court, only to be met with utter heartbreak as his memory had indeed been erased. With no choice but to retreat to the ashram, she gave birth to Bharat – a resilient and determined young prince. Miraculously, Dushyanta's memory resurfaced and he sought forgiveness, embracing Shakuntala and their son wholeheartedly. The resilient Bharat soon ascended the throne as the legendary king of Aryavarta and established a legacy, giving rise to what we now know as Bharat – the cherished land that unites us all.

Over time, the initial ashram vanished from sight, yet, a temple erected around forty years ago now shelters the captivating statues of Kanva, Bharat, Shakuntala, and Dushyanta. This picturesque haven teems with natural allure and serves as a sanctuary for a diverse array of birds and wildlife.

If you're on the hunt for a serene getaway, look no further than Lansdowne. This charming cantonment town is nestled just 45 km from Kotdwar and boasts a tranquil atmosphere, captivating weather, and breathtaking scenery that will leave you awestruck. As one of the most peaceful hill stations in India since the British era, Lansdowne offers a world of charm and natural beauty. With well-maintained roads leading right to its doorstep, this quaint destination remains delightfully undisturbed. Perched at an elevation of 1,700 meters, Lansdowne is enveloped by lush oak and blue pine forests. Named in honor of Lord Lansdowne, Viceroy of India from 1888 to 1894, the town currently houses the command office for the Garhwal Rifles division of the Indian Army.

Upon our return to the charming village of Padampur Motadhak, I had the opportunity to explore the remarkable agricultural ventures spearheaded by my Tauji’s family. My Tauji and cousin Ankur Bhaiya look after the family business of building material while my Taiji manages a thriving business of milk production with a flock of 20 cows. My talented cousin, Aanchal has a Master's in Forestry degree and has good entrepreneurial acumen. Her thriving Vermicompost initiative, combined with her flourishing fishery and bustling poultry farm, truly exemplifies the knowledge, skills, and newfound confidence blossoming among the women of Uttarakhand.

Our rich rural heritage, steeped in culture and unique traditions, has been passed down through generations, weaving a tapestry that reflects our nation's vibrant history. Preserving this legacy is vital, as it not only connects us to our roots but also fosters a sense of identity and belonging for those inhabiting these regions. Moreover, the picturesque rural landscapes, teeming with diverse flora and fauna, serve as the backbone of life on Earth. Safeguarding these natural havens is essential to maintain harmony within the intricate web that forms our planet's ecological balance.

Lately, the breakneck pace of urbanization and industrialization has wreaked havoc on rural culture and the environment. As agricultural land dwindles and our precious natural resources deplete, we are left grappling with alarming issues such as climate change and environmental destruction. The time is now to step up and safeguard our rural heritage and ecosystems. Migration has become a major problem in Uttarakhand, which has to be reversed. Discussions with Aanchal, Ankur Bhaiya, and others bring out that we should champion sustainable farming, embrace eco-tourism, and spark crucial conversations within local communities about the significance of protecting their cultural legacy and surroundings.

Having spent two delightful days, we embarked on our journey back to our home in Gurgaon on the morning of the third day, not forgetting to purchase the famous Chocolate and Balmithai from the Siddhbali and Tourist sweet shops. The exceptional warmth and hospitality extended by the family etched an indelible memory in my heart. I eagerly await my next visit for an even more extended stay.